Surf Science - Paula Russell

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Résumé :
Where do surfing waves come from? What makes everyone different? Why do some peel perfectly and others just close out? Why, some days, do waves come in sets, and others days they dont? How do the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surfing? Surf Science answers all these questions and many more. Now in its third edition, this is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfers point of view. With illustrations and examples from around the world, it fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help surfers to predict surf. For students, Surf Science is an invaluable introduction to oceanography and the science of waves.

Biographie:

Author: Butt, Tony;
Tony Butt has a Ph.D., in physical oceanography and worked with the Coastal Processes Research Group at Plymouth University. He is a big-wave surfer and lives in Spain.