An Introduction to Coastal Engineering - Michael Isaacson

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Biographie:

About the Author xvii

Preface xix

About the Companion Website xxi

1 Introduction 1

1.1 Scope of Coastal Engineering 1

1.2 Outline of Book 1

1.3 Example Projects 3

1.3.1 Coastal Flooding 3

1.3.2 Coastal Structure Design 4

1.3.3 Sediment Transport 4

1.3.4 Marina Design 6

1.4 Evolution of Coastal Engineering and Future Trends 6

2 Regular Waves 9

2.1 Introduction 9

2.2 Boundary Value Problem 10

2.2.1 Assumptions 11

2.2.2 Equations of Motion 11

2.2.3 Boundary Conditions 11

2.2.4 Governing Equations 12

2.3 Linear Wave Theory 13

2.3.1 Governing Equations 13

2.3.2 Solution for Flow Field 14

2.3.3 Depth Parameter 15

2.3.4 Description of Results 16

2.3.5 Linear Dispersion Relation 17

2.4 Wave Energy and Momentum 20

2.5 Waves with a Current 21

2.5.1 Fixed and Moving Reference Frames 22

2.5.2 Solution for Flow Field 22

2.5.3 Dispersion Relation 23

2.6 Extensions to Linear Wave Theory 24

2.6.1 Waves Propagating at An Angle to the X Axis 24

2.6.2 Reference Frame Moving with the Waves 25

2.6.3 Stream Function Representation 26

2.6.4 Complex Representation 26

2.7 Nonlinear Wave Theories 27

2.7.1 Stokes Wave Theories 27

2.7.2 Cnoidal Wave Theories 28

2.7.3 Solitary Wave Theories 28

2.7.4 Numerical Wave Theories 29

Problems 30

3 Wave Transformations 31

3.1 Wave Shoaling 31

3.1.1 Assumptions 32

3.1.2 Shoaling Relations 32

3.2 Wave Refraction 33

3.2.1 Refraction Relations 33

3.2.2 Numerical Modeling of Shoaling and Refraction 36

3.3 Wave Diffraction 39

3.3.1 Boundary Value Problem 39

3.3.2 Example Solutions 41

3.3.3 Straight Semi-Infinite Breakwater - Closed-Form Solution 41

3.3.4 Straight Semi-Infinite Breakwater - Diffraction Diagrams 43

3.3.5 Guidelines and Approximations on the Use of Diffraction Diagrams 43

3.4 Standing Waves 46

3.4.1 Standing Waves at a Wall 46

3.4.2 Standing Waves in a Basin 47

3.5 Wave Reflection 49

3.5.1 Normal Reflection 49

3.5.2 Oblique Reflection 50

3.6 Wave Transmission 51

3.7 Wave Attenuation 52

3.7.1 Forms of Energy Dissipation 52

3.7.2 Friction Factor 53

3.7.3 Attenuation Rate 54

3.8 Waves of Maximum Height 54

3.9 Breaking Waves 55

3.9.1 Forms of Wave Breaking 56

3.9.2 Breaking Wave Height and Depth 56

3.10 Wave Runup 58

3.11 Numerical Models 60

3.11.1 Overview 60

3.11.2 Models Based on the Mild-Slope Equation 60

3.11.3 Models Based on Boussinesq-Type Equations 62

Problems 63

4 Random Waves 65

4.1 Introduction 65

4.2 Probability Distribution of Wave Heights 66

4.3 Wave Spectra 69

4.3.1 One-Dimensional Spectra 69

4.3.2 Transformation of Wave Spectra 70

4.3.3 Directional Wave Spectra 73

4.3.4 Time-Frequency Domain Conversions 75

4.4 Long-Term Variability of Storms 77

4.5 Extreme Value Analysis 77

4.5.1 Overview 77

4.5.2 Exceedance Probabilities 78

4.5.3 Distribution Selection and Fit 78

4.5.4 Return Period and Annual Exceedance Probability 80

4.5.5 Encounter Probability 80

4.6 EVA Alternatives and Extensions 82

4.6.1 Annual Maxima 82

4.6.2 Lower Return Periods 83

4.6.3 Seasonal Conditions 83

4.6.4 Confidence Bands 83

4.7 Annual Wave Conditions 83

4.7.1 Wave Scatter Diagram 83

4.7.2 Long-Term Distribution of Individual Wave ...