In Deep - Matt George

. .

Résumé :

CONTENTS

FOREWORD 8

PREFACE 12

RED WATER 20

OLD SMOKE 26

ONCE THERE WAS A WAR 30

THE SEDUCTION OF KELLY SLATER 38

KEALA KENNELLY’...

Biographie:
For over thirty-five years, Matt George's feature articles and photographs have stood among the most influential works in surfing journalism. Accepting a post as Senior Contributing Editor for SURFER Magazine in 1985, George traveled the world as he covered all aspects of the sport, garnering a sterling list of awards and achievements along the way. George is also known for the writing and co-production of the Columbia Tri-Star Feature film In Gods Hands, a big wave surfing drama, and the creation of the NBC drama series, Wind on Water. He remains a senior contributor for all the major surf magazines and websites and is an in-demand public speaker. He resides in Bali, Indonesia, and is currently the Editor-in-Chief of South East Asia's Surftime Magazine. He still surfs every day....

Sommaire:
S SYMPHONIES FOR THE DEVIL 49

BYRNING HEART 62

FLESH AND BLOOD 82

DREAMTIME 97

WAR PARTY 102

THE HORNIEST SURFER ON THE WORLD QUALIFYING SERIES TOUR 108

BEAU YOUNG WALKS ON WATER 113

FULL METAL RACKET 128

WATERWORLD 138

DON’...