Old Clothes, New Looks -

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Résumé :
Introduction--Alexandra Palmer, Royal Ontario Museum, Canada and Hazel Clark, Parsons School of Design Historical Perspectives * Introduction--Alexandra Palmer, Royal Ontario Museum and Hazel Clark, Parsons School of Design * 'The Florentine Arigattieri: Second Hand Clothing Dealers and the Circulation of Goods in the Renaissance'--Carole Collier Frick, Southern Illinois University * 'Shifting Currency: the Culture and Economy of the Second Hand Trade in England, c. 1600-1850'--Beverly Lemire, University of New Brunswick, Canada * 'Cast Offs: Civilization, Charity or Commerce? Aspects of Second Hand Clothing Use in Australia'--Margot Riley, Independent Scholar * 'Second Hand Silk Kimono Migrating Across Borders'--Terry Satsuki Milhaupt, Independent Researcher * 'Parcels from America: American Clothes in Ireland, c. 1930 - 1980'--Hilary O'Kelly, National College of Art and Design, Dublin Trading Cultures * Introduction--Alexandra Palmer, Royal Ontarion Museum and Hazel Clark, Parsons School of Art and Design * Crafting Appearances: The Second Hand Clothing Trade and DressPractices in Zambia'--Karen Tranberg Hansen, Northwestern University * 'Creative Entrepreneurs: The Recycling of Second Hand Indian Clothing'--Lucy Norris, University College London * 'Ukay-Ukay@ Chic: Tales of Second Hand Clothing in the Philippine Cordillera'--Lynne Milgram, Ontario College of Art and Design, Canada * 'Second Hand Fashion, Culture and Identity in Hong Kong'--Hazel Clark, Parsons Scool of Art and Design Contemporary Re-Fashioning * Introduction--Alexandra Palmer, Royal Ontario Museum and Hazel Clark, Parsons School of Art and Design * 'Sixties Dress Only! The Consumption of the Past in a Retro Scene'--Heike Jen, Dortmund University, Germany * 'Vintage Whores and Vintage Virgins: Second Hand Fashion in the 21st Century'--Alexandra Palmer, Royal Ontario Museum * 'Working the Edge: XULY.Bt=s Recycled Clothing'--Victoria Rovine...

Biographie:
Alexandra Palmer is the Nora E. Vaughan Fashion Costume Curator, in the Textile and Costume Section at the Royal Ontario Museum, Canada. She is also adjunct faculty in the Graduate Programme in Art History, York University. Hazel Clark is Chair, Department of Critical Studies, Parsons School of Design....

Sommaire:
Recent interest in 'vintage' and second hand clothes by both fashion consumers and designers is only the latest manifestation of a long and complex cultural history of wearing and trading second hand clothes. With its origins in necessity, the passing of clothes between social and economic groups is now a global business, but with roots that are centuries old. To move from one social and cultural situation to another used clothes must be 'transformed' to become of potential value to a new social group. How, when and why this has happened is the subject of this book. Old Clothes, New Looks presents a three-part focus on the history, the trading culture, and the contemporary refashioning of second hand clothing. Historical perspectives include studies located in Renaissance Florence, early industrial England, colonial Australia, and mid twentieth-century Ireland. The global nature of the second hand trade in clothing is presented through original research from Zambia, India, the Philippines, Hong Kong, and Japan. The reuse of garments as contemporary fashion statements is explored through studies that include neo-mod retro-sixties subculture in Germany, the impact of 'vintage' in the USA on consumers and designers, as well as consideration of its sartorial and cultural challenges, encapsulated by the work of designer XULY.Bet. This groundbreaking book will be essential reading for all those interested in fashion and dress, material culture, consumption and anthropology, as well as to dealers, collectors and wearers of second hand clothes....